Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam
Srinagar and Dal Lake · Gulmarg · Sonmarg
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The place
About Srinagar and Dal Lake
Srinagar is a city built around water. The Jhelum runs through the middle of it and Dal and Nigeen lakes sit on the eastern edge, lined with wooden houseboats and backed by the Zabarwan hills. Most trips to Kashmir start and finish here because the airport is close and the lake is a good place to slow down before or after the mountains.
Give the city two or three days. One on the lake, one in the Mughal gardens on the eastern shore, and one walking the old town around the Jhelum bridges, where the woodcarvers, coppersmiths and papier-mache workshops still run.
What to do in Srinagar and Dal Lake
A dawn shikara ride
The lake is worth seeing before the day boats are out, when the vegetable sellers row to the floating market. Ask your houseboat to arrange it the night before and be on the water by six.
The Mughal gardens
Nishat and Shalimar sit on the eastern shore, both terraced with water channels and old chinar. Go early or late. Chashme Shahi is smaller and higher, with a spring and a view back over the lake.
The old city on foot
Start near Jamia Masjid with its wooden pillars, walk to the Shah-e-Hamdan shrine on the river, and follow the lanes through the copper and papier-mache quarters. A half day, best in the morning.
Hari Parbat and the fort
The hill above the old city has a Mughal wall, a gurudwara, a temple and a mosque on its slopes and a fort on top. A short climb for a wide view of the valley.
The Sunday market
If your dates line up, the weekly market along the river near the old city is the real thing, not a tourist bazaar. Early is better.
Getting there
Srinagar airport has direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai and a handful of other Indian cities, plus seasonal routes. It sits about 15 km south of the lake, roughly 40 minutes by road depending on traffic. The overland route from Jammu on the national highway takes eight to ten hours and is prone to weather closures in winter and to landslides in the monsoon.
Where to stay
A houseboat on Dal or Nigeen is the classic choice, and a good one is one of the nicer nights of any Kashmir trip. Standards vary a lot, so book a specific boat you have checked rather than a category. Nigeen lake and the quieter arms of Dal are calmer and cleaner than the main Boulevard stretch. If you would rather have a hotel, the Boulevard and the area around the golf course have the better ones, and the old city has a few small guesthouses for people who want to be in the middle of it.
Worth knowing before you go
- Houseboat quality is inconsistent. We only use boats we have stayed on, and we tell you the name before you pay.
- The lake has a pollution problem in parts. Where your boat sits on the lake matters more than its star rating.
- The old city is best explored slowly and on foot. Traffic makes it frustrating by car.
Trips
Itineraries that include Srinagar and Dal Lake
Srinagar and Dal Lake: common questions
How many days do I need in Srinagar?
Two nights covers the lake, the gardens and the old city without rushing. A third night lets you add a day trip to Gulmarg or Sonmarg, or simply slow down further.
Is a houseboat safe and comfortable?
A well-run boat is solid, warm in winter, and has proper hot water and food cooked on board. A cheap one can be damp and tired. The gap between the two is large, which is why we are careful about which one we book.
Can I visit Srinagar in winter?
Yes. December to February is cold, often below freezing at night, and the lake sometimes ices at the edges. The gardens are bare and the city is very quiet, which some people prefer. Confirm heating on any houseboat before booking for winter.
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