Journal

Notes from the valley

Guides and practical advice for planning a Kashmir trip. Written from experience, not for search engines.

Planning · 7 min read

How much a Kashmir trip costs, and where the money goes

A plain breakdown of what a private Kashmir trip actually costs, what drives the price up or down, and where people tend to overspend or get caught out.

Seasons

7 min read · 18 February 2026

When to visit Kashmir, month by month

What the valley is actually like through the year, so you can pick dates that match the trip you want rather than the one the brochure sells.

Planning

6 min read · 2 February 2026

How many days do you need in Kashmir?

A straight answer for trips of three to fourteen days, what each length gets you, and the drives to plan around so you are not stuck in the car.

Places

6 min read · 30 January 2026

Four days in Pahalgam without rushing

A slower way to spend time in the Lidder valley, built around short walks and the river rather than a list of viewpoints.

Places

6 min read · 12 December 2025

Getting to Gurez, and whether it is worth the drive

What the road over the Razdan pass is really like, what you will find when you get there, and who should skip it.

Practical

5 min read · 20 November 2025

What a Dal Lake houseboat is actually like

The good and the less good of sleeping on the water in Srinagar, and how to tell a well-run boat from a tired one before you book.

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