Gurez, Over the Razdan Pass
Srinagar and Dal Lake · Gurez Valley
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The place
About Gurez Valley
Gurez lies north of the main valley, along the Kishanganga river close to the Line of Control. It opens only for the warm months, when the Razdan pass at around 3,300 metres is clear of snow. Habba Khatoon peak stands over Dawar, the main village, and further up the Tulail valley there are settlements of stacked log houses that are lived in rather than preserved.
It takes a long day to reach and rewards people who want somewhere genuinely quiet and are relaxed about basic rooms and no mobile signal.
What to do in Gurez Valley
Dawar and the bazaar
The main village, with a small market, a few guesthouses, and Habba Khatoon peak filling the skyline. A good base for a night or two.
The Tulail valley
Drive further up the valley past villages of log houses toward Tulail. The road is rough and the settlements feel a long way from anywhere. Worth a night deeper in if you have the time.
Walk toward Habba Khatoon
A short walk from Dawar takes you toward the base of the pyramid-shaped peak named after the sixteenth-century Kashmiri poet.
The Kishanganga
The river runs green and loud through the whole valley. Most evenings in Gurez end up beside it.
Getting there
By road only. Srinagar to Bandipora along Wular lake, then the climb over the Razdan pass and the drop into the Gurez valley. Five to six hours in good conditions, more if the weather turns or there is work on the pass. We usually break the drive with a night in Bandipora on the way in. There are army checkposts where you show ID and your vehicle is logged.
Where to stay
Simple guesthouses and homestays in Dawar and a few in Tulail. Clean beds, home-cooked food, shared or basic bathrooms, unreliable electricity. This is part of the appeal and not something to fight.
Worth knowing before you go
- Indian nationals do not need a permit for Gurez. Foreign nationals currently cannot visit. Check the current position with us before planning.
- Carry enough cash for the whole trip. Cards and mobile payments do not work reliably past Bandipora.
- The Razdan pass can close after summer storms, which can add a day. Keep the end of the trip loose.
Trips
Itineraries that include Gurez Valley
Gurez Valley: common questions
Who should visit Gurez?
People who have already seen the main valleys, or who simply want somewhere very quiet and are fine with basic comfort. If you need a full programme every day, or long drives wear you out, this is not the trip.
Is it safe?
Gurez has been open to Indian tourists for years. There is an army presence and checkposts, and our drivers know the route and the routine. If the situation changes we tell you before you travel.
How many days does Gurez need?
Five to six days from Srinagar, with a night in Bandipora on the way in and three nights in the valley. The drive back out in one go on the last day is the hardest part.
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